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The volcanic highlands of Teide National Park, Tenerife, under a wide open sky.

Tenerife

Spain · Canary Islands · July 2026

An island we could easily come back to.

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Vienna Airport

Slovenia → Vienna

Why Vienna?

Close enough to drive, large enough to give us plenty of choice. And this time, the deciding factor: a direct flight to Tenerife.

Vienna Airport · Car Park 3

€187.68

1 Jul, 18:00 → 10 Jul, 22:00

Not the cheapest parking option, but it's right at the terminal, covered and incredibly convenient with luggage — especially in bad weather. We book online in advance because it's cheaper, with a few extra hours on either side for delays.

Vienna Airport
Tenerife South Airport

The Flight

Vienna to Tenerife

Ryanair · direct1 Jul → 10 Jul 2026Flights for four

€1,927.84

Checked luggage2 × 10 kg · 2 × 20 kg

Almost ten years earlier, a similar amount took us all the way to the Seychelles with Qatar Airways.

Scheduled departure

20:55

Delay

1 h 25 min

In the air

5 h 20 min

A first with Ryanair

What I hadn't thought about

This was our first time flying Ryanair, and there was one thing I hadn't thought about: the seats don't recline.

On a daytime flight, I wouldn't care. On a 5 h 20 min overnight flight when all you want to do is sleep, it matters.

Would I choose Ryanair again? Yes. But for another long overnight flight, I'd definitely think about those seats.

Looking out over the Ryanair wing, winglet branding visible, with Mount Teide and the Tenerife coastline in the distance.

Arrival

Just before 03:00

Tenerife South · local time · one hour behind Slovenia

The airport wasn't asleep.

The airport was still surprisingly active — rental-car desks were open and taxis were waiting outside.

We could have picked up our car then. We chose not to. After an overnight flight, navigating unfamiliar roads and finding the hotel was one stress we simply didn't need.

The car could wait. Hotel first.

Getting to the Hotel

The transfer we probably didn't need.

A bad experience on a previous trip made me want certainty this time. So I pre-booked our transfer through Booking.com.

Booking.com confirmation for the pre-booked transfer from Tenerife South Airport to Roca Nivaria Gran Hotel.

We left the airport and went straight to the taxi area — only to realize once we got there that we actually had to go back inside first, to find the meeting point. Booking.com's instructions for that arrived too late to help.

It worked out. At almost 3 AM, it still felt unnecessarily complicated.

Pre-booked transfer

€65.30

Taxi at the airport

around €40

Would I pre-book it again?

Not there.

There were plenty of taxis waiting outside, and they were cheaper. Somewhere else, especially after a late arrival? Possibly. Sometimes peace of mind is worth paying for.

Tenerife South Airport
Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso

Tenerife South → Roca Nivaria · Playa Paraíso

Just before 04:00

Finally, our hotel.

Roca Nivaria at night — the illuminated pool, palm trees and hotel grounds in Playa Paraiso.

Roca Nivaria · Playa Paraíso

The Hotel

Why this one?

Great reviews, a family suite and a price that made sense compared with the alternatives.

9.1 · 1,656 reviews · 5 stars

Roca Nivaria · 9 Nights

€3,461.67

1 Jul → 10 Jul 2026Family Suite · 2 adults + 2 childrenBreakfast included
Roca Nivaria in daylight — the hotel exterior and grounds at Playa Paraiso.

Roca Nivaria · Playa Paraíso

The Hotel Itself

Overall, a very good hotel.

Beautifully maintained, with great pools, plenty for the kids and everything we needed for a comfortable stay.

The location? I'm not so sure.

Peaceful, with a lovely coastal path — but limited choice nearby and a beach we never really fell for.

The Rental Car

No prepayment?

We booked directly with CICAR. No prepayment, no deposit — just a confirmation and a car delivered to our hotel.

CICAR · Fiat 600

€194.35

3 Jul → 10 JulInsurance included · Hotel deliveryNo prepayment

The year before, the same Fiat 600 cost us €971 in Sardinia — for a rental that was almost two days longer.

Our CICAR rental car, a Fiat 600, delivered to the hotel.
No prepayment. No deposit.

So far, just a confirmation.

With no prepayment, no deposit and no further contact, I did wonder whether someone would actually turn up at the hotel as arranged.

Just before 11, a CICAR representative walked into reception with the paperwork.

And that was it.

One signature, a few instructions, and the Fiat was ours for the week.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Playa del DuqueCosta Adeje

Our First Stop

So, which beach first?

We looked for recommendations and Playa del Duque kept coming up. So that's where we went.

Playa del Duque, Costa Adeje — the beach, sea and coastline.

Playa del Duque · Costa Adeje

We're not all-day beach people.

We never really are. A few hours, a swim, something to eat and we're usually ready to move on.

It was incredibly hot, and shade meant renting an umbrella. The sea, though — clear, cool and full of waves.

€20. Ten minutes. Why not?

A completely unplanned beach massage — and surprisingly, a really good one.

We visited more beaches after this one, but Playa del Duque remained our favourite.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Siam ParkCosta Adeje

Siam Park

Hot day. Cold water. We were freezing.

It was incredibly hot outside. Somehow, we spent the morning shivering.

Cold water, wet swimsuits, long queues and plenty of natural shade turned out to be a surprisingly chilly combination.

Siam Park + Loro Parque

€270

Family of four · 2 adults, 2 children€78 adult · €57 childSiam Park · 4 Jul · Loro Parque · 9 JulBooked online in advance
The catch?

We had to choose both visit dates when booking.

That meant those two days of the trip were fixed in advance rather than decided spontaneously.

On the way in

The car park was packed, so we parked at the nearby shopping centre instead.

Walking from there to the entrance, this caught my eye.

A stone roadside planter filled with discarded bottles and cans, on the walk from the car park to Siam Park.

This wasn't how Tenerife had felt to us.

Maybe that's why it caught my attention.

And then, back to the fun.

Many of the rides use rafts for four, so we could ride together.

The kids absolutely loved it.

Would I consider Fast Pass next time?

Yes — some queues were long enough that I'd at least look into it before going again.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Playa de Las TeresitasSanta Cruz de Tenerife

Playa de Las Teresitas

The beach? Nice. The day? So much better.

We arrived around 11:00 to complete parking chaos.

We eventually found a space — free, but definitely limited.

The beach?

Calm, easy to swim in and perfectly nice.

The sand was incredibly hot, but for us, it simply wasn't a wow beach.

Somehow, we stayed all afternoon.

We had arranged to meet friends there and ended up having such a good time that we stayed far longer than we normally would at a beach.

One last stop

The viewpoint was worth it.

View from the Mirador de Las Teresitas over the full curve of the beach, the bay, the public parking and the hazy Santa Cruz coastline beyond.

Calima followed us throughout our stay, blurring the distant views. Still, the view was absolutely worth it.

Calima is fine Saharan dust carried across the Canary Islands, often creating hazy skies and reduced visibility.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Los GigantesMarina

Los Gigantes · Sailing

Three hours very well spent.

I booked the trip through GetYourGuide, originally for 13:00.

Later, I moved it to 09:45 after reading that the sea tends to be calmer in the morning.

Our sailboat, Third Element, moored at Los Gigantes marina.
The Sailing Trip

3 hours

€270 for fourThird ElementBooked through GetYourGuide09:45 departure
Parking at the marina

We parked at the marina before our sailing trip.

There was still plenty of space when we arrived in the morning, but it filled up surprisingly quickly.

First stop

We found them.

Short-finned pilot whales appeared alongside us — exactly what we had hoped to see.

Then, the cliffs

Now I understood the name.

We sailed beneath Los Gigantes and stopped for a swim.

The Giants.

Looking straight up at the sheer cliff face of Los Gigantes rising from the sea.
Worth it

Whales, a swim beneath the cliffs and a simple sandwich they served us on board that somehow tasted just right.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Mount TeideCable Car

Mount Teide

This landscape got me.

I booked our cable car tickets more than three months in advance so I could choose the day and time we wanted.

We knew the cable car could close in strong winds, so there was always a little luck involved.

Cable Car

09:50

€132 for four2 adults · 2 childrenBooked in advance
One thing I didn't know

The cable car isn't the summit.

To reach the actual peak of Teide, you need a separate permit — something that has to be arranged well in advance.

We didn't have one.

Parking

There was still plenty of space when we arrived in the morning.

It became much busier later, although spaces kept opening up as people left.

Looking down at the cable car base station and parking area from inside the ascending cabin.
Going up

We got lucky.

I'd read so much about how cold it could be up there that we came prepared with extra layers.

We didn't need them. Short sleeves were perfectly fine.

Teide's summit cone rising above the volcanic rock, seen from below against a clear sky.
My verdict

Was I impressed? Absolutely.

Were the kids? Not really.

I think actual flowing lava might have helped.

A hazy caldera view from Teide, the distant mountains obscured by calima.
The view

The weather was on our side. The visibility wasn't.

Calima blurred the distant views even up here.

Volcanic rock pinnacles and high-altitude scrub vegetation on the slopes of Teide.
The landscape

I wasn't ready to leave.

The cable car was an experience, but it was the landscape that stayed with me.

I could have driven through Teide National Park, stopped, looked around and done it all over again.

For me, this was the most fascinating place in Tenerife.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Loro ParquePuerto de la Cruz

Loro Parque

A very different day in Tenerife.

Even the drive there showed us another side of the island — small villages that felt worlds away from the polished resort areas along the coast.

The Park

Polished. Organised. Easy to explore.

It didn't take long to find our way around.

The Shows

Check the times before you start.

Orcas, dolphins, sea lions and more — if you want to see several shows, it helps to plan the order around their schedules.

We left the orcas until later in the day and found it much quieter than we expected.

Mixed Feelings

This is where I'm still a little torn.

I know the park is involved in rescue and conservation work, and the animals appear incredibly well cared for.

Still, I have mixed feelings about trained-animal shows.

My Favourite?

The gorilla. Easily.

A silverback gorilla resting in a naturalistic, rock-and-greenery enclosure at Loro Parque, Tenerife.
Final Verdict

I'm glad we went.

It was a lovely day and the park is beautifully kept.

It just wasn't one of my personal highlights of Tenerife.

Roca NivariaPlaya Paraiso
Playa de las Américas
Tenerife SouthAirport
One Last Stop

Playa de las Américas.

We stopped here on our way to the airport and immediately liked the feel of the area.

Everything felt easy and close at hand — restaurants, shops, beaches.

If I were choosing where to stay on Tenerife again, this is probably the area I'd look at first.

Tenerife South

Much easier than we'd expected.

We weren't quite sure where to return the car, but we needn't have worried. Everything was clearly signposted from the road and the return itself was simple.

The airport was bigger than I expected, but just as easy to navigate.

Looking Back

Now I understand why people come all year round.

Tenerife is an easy island to enjoy — varied, relaxed and with something different never very far away.

And you can tell tourism is part of its DNA. Everything just works for visitors.

Tall palm trees against open blue sky with the sea and foreground below, Tenerife.

Booked before we left

  • Flights
  • Hotel
  • Car rental
  • Mount Teide cable car
  • Siam Park + Loro Parque tickets
  • Whale-watching trip
  • Airport parking in Vienna
  • Airport transfer in Tenerife